New Zealand Training – Scotland April
2010
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Cummingston
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Beinn a' Chaorainn
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New Zealand Expedition Nov/Dec 2010
15thNov- 16th Dec
James
led a mountaineering and rock climbing expedition to New Zealand South Island.
The team spent 5 days in the Mount Aspiring National Park. A base camp was
established on
the Cascade saddle. The group successfully made it to the summit of Mount
Tyndall and had a
day on the Mount Ansted ridge.
James took the group to see what rock climbing New Zealand had to offer in:
Wanaka, Charleston and Tarkaka.
Team headed back for the mountains and this time to the Kiakoura
range.
Successful summit of Mount Taupe. Including
approximately 80 river crossings!
3 weeks of stunning weather J
Winter Skills/Winter Climbing/Winter ML
Jan 2011-April 2011
James had another long winter due to good snow/ice
conditions
James led winter skills and winter climbing courses for Waitrose/John Lewis
Venture Club,
Cairngorm Club, and his private clients.
James spent time during the winter working for Glenmore Lodge as a course
director for
Winter ML trainings and assessments.
Summer ML 9th-14th
May
James worked this week for Glenmore Lodge as course director for the Summer
Mountain
Leader Award.
Skye May 28th – June 3rd 2011
James employed Richard Hathoway
and Kathy Bromfield to join him leading a
climbing and scrambling trip to Skye.
The group was a mix of Waitrose/John Lewis clients and private clients.
All 6 clients ascended Pinnacle Ridge (Grade Mod), completed the Clach Glas
traverse, single pitch rock climbed at Elgol, and
finished by heading to Dubh slabs via
Sgurr dubh Mor.
Cornwall Rock Climbing
20th June – 15th July 2011
Headed to the sunshine for some multi pitch rock
climbing.
James met up with his clients in the South West to lead them up some of Cornwalls
best multi pitch climbs.
Clients joined James for a mixture of 2 – 5 days. Some wanted to learn to lead,
others just
wanted to enjoy the climbing, the scenery, the
sunshine and let James lead them up the route.
Personal aspirations were met and everyone enjoyed ice cream and cake at the
end of the day!
Some of the routes climbed include:
Door Post and Autumn Flakes at Bosigran
South Face Direct, Terriers Tooth and Overhanging Chimney at Chair Ladder
Pennine Way – Central section
17th-23rd July 2011
James was leading the Central section of the Pennine
way for the Waitrose/John Lewis Venture Club
The week was a continuation from last years south section.
5
participants travelled to meet James in Horton in Ribblesdale
on Sunday.
The group then walked 152km over the next 6 days.
A support Vehicle with the teams camp provisions met
them at the end of each day with
tea and cake waiting J
All members of the team successfully completed the walk to Greenhead.
The weather certainly did its best with only one wet day in six!
The final section will be in September 2012.
Rock Climbing
3rd-5th Aug 2011
James tailored a rock climbing course for an aspirant MIA.
James and his client headed to Cummingston and into
the mountains for a mix of single and
multi pitch climbing.
Once again the weather held for them to have a great 3 days on the rock.
Summer ML Training
8th-13th Aug 2011
James spent the week working for Glenmore Lodge as the course director
for a summer ML training course.
Summer ML Training
29th Aug – 3rd Sept 2011
James spent the week working at Glenmore lodge as course director for a
summer ML training course.
Bolt Clipping – Learn to lead sport
3rd Sept 2011
James employed Ian Stewart to run a bolt clipping day for the Cairngorm Club.
Five members of the club showed huge commitment when they turned up at Benny
Beg in the pouring rain!
Thankfully the weather cleared and everyone was comfortably leading by the end
of the dayJ
Rock Climbing – Wye
Valley
10th-17th Sept 2011
James will be away all of next week running a rock climbing course for the
British Army.
Rock climbing – Intro to Rock
19th-23rd Sept 2011
James will be running an Intro to Rock course for Glenmore Lodge this week.
Summer ML Training/ Assessment
7-9 Oct 2011
James
will be working this course for Pete Goldsmith in Brecon.
Summer ML Training
17- 21 Oct 2011
James
will be working as course director at Glenmore Lodge.
Casualty Care in Mountain Rescue
29/ 30 Oct 2011
James
re qualified as member of Glenmore and Cairngorm MRT Cas Care
Glenmore MRT Training
7/8/9 Dec 2011
James
took part in the Glenmore Lodge MRT training exercise in the Northern Corries
Winter Mountaineering
19- 23 Dec 2011
James
led a mountaineering expedition into the Cairngorms with overnights at the Corrour Bothy and Hutcheson
Memorial Hut
Winter Safety Courses Arquiva
4- 13 and 18- 20 Jan 2012
James
was coordinating and delivering training in winter safety skills for telecoms
engineers at Glenmore Lodge.
Winter ML Refresher
14- 15 Jan 2012
James
was directing this week end course to refresh those aspiring to be assessed in ML(W).
Intro Winter Climbing
21- 22 Jan 2012
James
was guiding in the corries in winds of excess of
90mph. Completed the Runnel and Goat Track Gulley for Glenmore Lodge
Intro Lead Winter Climbing
23- 27 Jan 2012
James
was guiding in The Cairngorms and teaching two clients Fraser and Chris to lead
climb in winter.
Intro Winter Lead Climbing
30 – 3 Feb 2012
James
was guiding and teaching in the Cairngorms with two clients who wished to learn
to lead in winter. For Glenmore Lodge.
Intro to Winter Climbing
4-5 Feb 2012
James
was guiding two clients in the Northern Corries.
Avalanche Awareness Navigation and Winter
Mountaineering
6- 10 Feb 2012
James
was working for Glenmore Lodge on a variety of courses this week. Enough winter
around.
Winter ML Refresher
11-12 Feb 2012
James
was coaching one client who is aspiring to hold the ML(W)
Into to Winter Climbing
13- 17 Feb 2012
James
was working with two clients learning about winter climbing. For
Glenmore Lodge.
Intro to Winter Mountaineering
20- 24 Feb 2012
James
had four clients on the Cairngorm Plateaux learning
to mountaineer in challenging conditions.
Intro to Winter Climbing
25- 26 Feb 2012
James
had two clients from the Cairngorm Club learning about winter climbing. Still just enough about.
Winter Skills
27- 04 Mar 2012
James
was working at Glenmore Lodge again delivering basic winter training.
Intro to Winter Lead Climbing
5- 9 Mar 2012
James
had one client learning to lead in winter. We had to go to Anoch
Mor to guarantee the
conditions but it was worth it!
Intro to Lead Rock Climbing
12- 16 Mar 2012
James
changed his winter to summer to follow the season. Two
clients, great weather and perhaps the best of the summer.
Intro to Rock
17- 18 Mar 2012
Great weather for rock climbing for Patrick and Tom.
Winter Skills
19- 20 Mar 2012
Working winter skills for the RAPTC at Glenmore Lodge.
Intro to Rock
25- 29 Mar 2012
The
great weather continues with James working with Giggleswick
School.
Two
pupils climb Tower Ridge, Afterthought Arrete,
Fingers Ridge and Ardverikie Wall in a great week of
climbing.
Mobile Climbing Tower Supervisors Course
31-01 Apr 2012
James
delivers this course for Dundee and Angus Cadet Battalions.
HOLIDAY
James
is on holiday in April
Learn to Lead
7- 11 May 2012
Back
to work teaching leading to clients for Glenmore Lodge. More dry weather.
Intro to Rock
19- 20 May 2012
Two
day rock climbing for Glenmore Lodge
Training/ assessing ML(S)
25/26/27 May 2012
James
is working for Pete Goldsmith assessing aspiring ML(S)
Skye Scrambling
3- 8 June 2012
The
great weather continues with only one hour of rain in Skye during the whole
week. A successful traverse of the ridge with two overnights was
complimented by climbing on the Cioch in perfect conditions. Friction on Arrow route, views
from the bivvies and a hard frost all added
to the great experience. Frost =
fewer midges. Great.
ML(S) Training
10- 15 June 2012
James
was working with Phil Sanderson for Glenmore Lodge.
Pennine Way
18- 22 June 2012
Members
of John Lewis Venture Club completed the last segment of the Pennine Way. With overnight rain for the final bivvi members were pleased to dine well in the
pub on the last night. We were very
pleased that Nigel Williams from Glenmore Lodge was able to assist us.
Rock Climbing Cornwall
9 July- 02 August 2012
James
was in Cornwall again this year guiding on the great sea cliffs of West Penwith. In what has become an annual event James was
joined by Patrick, Tom, Chris, Jonny, Simon, Alex and Liz over the course of
three weeks. The weather continued to be fine with
only one day interrupted for rain though we still got on the rock in the
afternoon. With sun, sea, sand, ice cream, Cornish pasty and cream teas it was
super. Routes climbed included Terriers Tooth (HS), Flannel Avenue (HS), Zig Zag(VS), Anvil Chorus (VS),
Little Brown Jug(VS), South Face Direct(VS), Aerial(VS), Ding (VS), Belle(VS),
Saxon(HVS), Suicide Wall(E1), Thin Wall Special(E1), Bishops Rib(E1), The
Chicken Run(E2). The second pitch of Bishops Rib must rate as one of the most
beautiful pitches of trad climbing anywhere.
ML(S) Training
6- 11 Aug 2012
James
was course director for this Mountain Leader (Summer)
Training course held at Glenmore Lodge. The weather again was dry. The
expedition to the Cairngorms was completed without waterproofs even in the
rucksack!
Greenland 2012
17 Aug 02 Sept 2012
James was guiding in Greenland. Two clients Chris and Neil were led
in an area south of the Karale glacier about 100
miles northwest of Kulusuk. Again the weather was
superb with only one day of strong winds. Most summits gained were between 700
and 1100 meters and all ascended from sea level. This was an excellent
expedition with a truly remote feel. James got to try his hand at making bread
on the MSR and guiding without maps or guidebooks. The country is like Scotland
with glaciers and teeth. Seeing Arctic fox, geese and Ptarmigan hen and chicks
was lovely. Not seeing bear was better. The photos below give a taste of the
beauty and nature of the country. One to die for.
Figure
1 The view over the costal range towards the
ocean

Figure 2 Chris and Neil at a high coll

Figure 3 Waking up in an Alpine bivvi. Frost not
spilt tea on the bag

Figure 4 The view from the tent door
Rock Improver
3- 7 Sept 2012
James
was working coaching and teaching at Glenmore Lodge. Dave went away having led
HVS5b. Well done him.
ML(S) Training
17- 22 Sept 2012
James
was working on a ML (Summer) Training course for
Glenmore Lodge. With snow and low temperatures for the expedition a good winter
looks possible.
ML(S) Assessment
01- 05 Oct 2012
James
was working on a ML(S) Assessment course for Glenmore Lodge.
WGL Training
08- 11 Oct 2012
James
was working on a WGL Training course for Glenmore Lodge.
ML(S) Assessment
12- 14 Oct 2012
James
was working on a ML(S) assessment for Pete Goldsmith in the Brecon
Beacons
Multi Pitch Rock Climbing
15- 17 Oct 2012
Coaching
and guiding in North Wales.
Holiday
November
James
is on holiday for November mixing this with a bit of CMRT training and planning
for next year.
This
includes so far Scottish winter, North Wales rock and
Mt Kazbek in Georgia in June. Italy in July and
possibly another longer OS expedition
in November
.